Los Marinos Paco has stood on Playa de Carvajal since 1985, run by the same family through three generations, back to the grandfather who started it.

The fish comes off the dock and goes straight onto the fire: espetos de sardinas cooked over wood, arroces melosos, fried fish, whole fish baked in salt, and shellfish priced by weight that morning.

There is a glass-enclosed dining room for when the wind gets up, and an open terrace straight onto the sand for when it doesn't.