Kalifato Beach sits on the sand at Playa de Carvajal, a chiringuito that has been rebuilt around its terrace, which faces nothing but water.

The kitchen works with whatever the sea gave up that morning: coquinas, boquerones al limón, rosada a la plancha, paella and rice dishes, shellfish and fish straight off the plancha. There are vegetarian dishes on the menu too, which is rarer than it should be in a chiringuito.

Music plays through the day and the terrace is the kind you end up sitting on longer than you planned.